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    Features

    Topicals & Ingestibles Head in New Directions

    Familiar companies and new players are adding a glow to the beauty supplement business.

    Topicals & Ingestibles Head in New Directions
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    By Imogen Matthews, Consultant09.03.19
    Market research provider Euromonitor International has identified healthy living as a megatrend, transforming many consumer markets and services and fostering a cultural shift in consumer behavior and consumption patterns. As a result, new avenues are opening up for companies to develop ingestibles that are designed to work in tandem with topicals for optimizing skin health.

    According to Euromonitor, global sales of herbal health products are forecast to reach $63 billion, growing 20% faster than all over-the-counter products. Irina Barbalova, global lead, health and beauty, Euromonitor International, puts this growth in the context of wider solutions with technology and personalization at the core.

    “Preventative health is taking self-care to the next level through supporting solutions around areas of mental health,” she said, adding that 50% of global consumers are looking for new ways to prevent stress and anxiety issues. Health has therefore become a lifestyle issue and the pursuit of wellness is often linked to emotional balance and mental well-being.

    Know Your CBDs
    Cannabidiol (CBD), the latest hot ingredient, is ideally suited to address the health and wellness trend, and Euromonitor predicted that vitamins and dietary supplements will be the largest cannabis-driven OTC market by 2025, with 2% of sales being CBD-based.

    Disciple Miracle Drops takes CBD into the beauty arena with a formulation that can be placed under the tongue or added to coffee, as well as used topically as part of a skin care routine against redness and blemishes.

    “Brands that offer multiple benefits will give consumers more reasons to purchase, while offering personalized solutions will add to their appeal,” said Rosalia Di Gesu, global beauty & personal care analyst for Mintel.

    Avon, for example, has entered into the health and wellness space with Espira, a collection of supplements made with naturally-sourced ingredients. The line consists of Glow, for hair skin and nails, with AM and PM variants to protect against daily damage and help rebuild cells during sleep; Restore, focusing on occasional stress and enhancing restful sleep; Boost, aimed at maintaining a healthy metabolism by clearing out one’s system and controlling hunger.

    Adaptogenic formulas and beauty “dusts” are another new development for inside out beauty, spotted via Mintel’s Global New Producuts Database (GNPD) monitoring service.

    “Supplements positioned as beauty ‘dusts’ blur the line with color cosmetics by claiming to make skin ‘glowy’ and youthful from within,” explained Di Gesu.

    Glow Bar’s Super Glowy exemplifies this trend with a powder format, formulated with stress-relieving adaptogenic herbs (e.g., ashwagandha and Rhodiola rosea), which are said to help modulate the release of stress hormones.

    Moon Juice Moon Dusts are supplements with adaptogenic herbs and mushrooms to help combat stress. Moon Juice Beauty Shroom skin care herbal supplements include a topical plumping jelly serum, an exfoliator, and a vegan collagen protection supplement.

    The Benefits of Liposomes
    U.K. family-run business, Nutrivitality, was created to develop next-level nutraceuticals by designing and manufacturing liquid supplements to support a healthy diet and lifestyle. Beauty supplements came later with the launch of SkinGlo Collagen. Since January 2019, SkinGlo has partnered with about 100 U.K. beauty spas, clinics, and salons, as well as a handful of partners across Europe. From August, Nutrivitality moved to a new production facility in order to produce 250,000 bottles a day.

    Earlier this year, at In-Cosmetics Global, Alex Campbell, director, Nutrivitality, described the science behind the products, which utilize liposomal technology. Using The Physician’s Desk Reference as a source, Campbell pointed out that orally-delivered liquids offer the best absorption compared to other methods.

    “Our bodies are very inefficient at extracting nutrients from our food. In order for the gut to absorb nutrients, they must be in liquid form,” he stated. “Liquids are much more efficient as they are made ready for absorption; that’s why every supplement we produce is a liquid.”

    Nutrivitality’s own liposomal encapsulation technology is called NutriProtect and in each SkinGlo sachet there are around 90 million NutriProtect liposomes that protect the liquids from the harsh environment of the stomach, ensuring they get to where they need to be and offering maximum absorption, according to the company.

    Campbell described the challenges the company has faced in getting its message across in a beauty industry still dominated by traditional topical solutions.

    “The clinical world is much more aware of the benefits of ingesting collagen and that’s where we’ve witnessed our biggest growth,” he disclosed.

    The company focused on its clinical trials, absorption technology, and thoroughly researched a cocktail of skin beneficial nutricosmetic ingredients to inform consumers about product efficacy. In addition, Nutrivitality engages with the public by asking them to trial the product in exchange for their honest feedback in the form of video diaries which can be viewed on the company website.

    “We recently commissioned our own clinical study and by October will have ultrasound scans which demonstrate clearly the collagen boosting properties of SkinGlo, as well as a whole host of before and after pictures,” he said.

    Beauty Benefits in Liquid
    Mintel researchers pointed out an increase in the number of new drink formats with beauty connotations, linked to the finding that in the U.S., 44% of vitamin, mineral, and supplement users are interested in adding cream/powders to coffee. Vital Proteins Collagen Creamers are collagen-based powders in coconut, vanilla, and gingerbread flavors that reportedly support healthy hair, skin, nails, bones and joints, boost energy, and add protein to the diet.

    Kora Organics, founded by Australian model Miranda Kerr, markets Noni Glow Skinfood Dietary Supplement Powder as a complement to the skin care line. Noni fruit extract, rich in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, is said to promote skin’s natural radiance.

    Jelly snacks and drinks are popular with Asian consumers looking for skin care benefits from within. Examples include Shiseido The Collagen Relacle (also available in tablet form), Lotte Health Apple Flavored Collagen 1000 Konjac Jelly, and Tokiwa Yakuhin Noevir Group Beaupower Açai Flavor Placenta and Collagen Beauty Jelly.

    Mintel predicted that inside-out solutions will boost the value of the beauty category. Brands have a great opportunity to move into unchartered territory by expanding into the vitamins, minerals, and supplements segment by means of a “beauty meets wellness” proposition. 


    Imogen Matthews is a consultant, journalist, and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, on trends in the U.K. premium beauty markets.  For more information: E-mail: imogen@imogenmatthews.co.uk; Website: www.thepremiummarketreport.com
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