Joerg Gruenwald11.30.-1
The relatively new segment of nutricosmetics—also referred to as cosmeceuticals or oral beauty products, depending on who is doing the analysis—is growing rapidly. While it continues to profit from global trends such as “natural,” it is also causing some confusion, not just for market analysts but also for regulators.
The problem surrounds the claims and delivery of these products. The claims are cosmetic, but since they are consumed like dietary supplements or functional foods, they are regulated as food and therefore subject to international health claim regulations. Therefore, in Europe, any health-related (but not purely cosmetic) claim made on cosmeceuticals needs to be approved by the European Commission, same as any food or dietary supplement.
A Confusing but Growing Market
Despite this confusion, the market is growing. It is estimated to reach more than $6 billion by 2011, growing at a rate of 4.5%. Regionally, the Japanese market is about 10 years ahead of Europe and the U.S./Canada, while the fastest growing single market is the U.K., with a growth rate of 16% (2006-2011).
In Europe, the top claims revolve around antioxidant/anti-aging (60%), hair (20%) and skin improvement (20%), with top ingredients including plant/fruit extracts, carotenoids and phytosterols, followed by vitamins, hyaluronic acid, collagen and peptides.
Beauty drinks represent the strongest segment in Europe, with claims focused on anti-aging properties for skin. Within beverages, the strongest product categories include fruit and vegetable juices, tea, fortified waters, dairy (especially soy-based) and protein drinks.
One of the emerging segments is beauty foods, which includes snacks, bars, dairy and even confectionery and dental care products. Popular functional ingredients in these types of products are fruits, seeds, nuts, cocoa and probiotics.
Featured Ingredients
Among the ingredients used in nutricosmetics, antioxidants represent the most crucial. As free-radical scavengers they prevent the oxidation of cell compounds, which is generally considered one of the main mechanisms of premature aging.
There are almost 1000 different compounds with various chemical structures that have different modes of action as they target different mechanisms of antioxidant support. Most of the specific modes of action are not yet elucidated, but research points to combinations of various antioxidants generally being more effective. The best-known antioxidants are carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin and astaxanthin) and polyphenols (anthocyanidins, catechins, flavonoids, tannins and procyanidins such as Pycnogenol). Sources include tomatoes, fungi, algae, tea leaves, grape seed, citrus fruits and berries. The very popular and trendy superfruits are also full of antioxidants, and they have the added advantage of great taste and being high in consumer awareness.
Recently cocoa and its high flavanol content entered the limelight, infusing the confectionery market with highly welcome effects on health. Ingestion of flavonol-rich cocoa has been shown to increase skin density and hydration, as well as decrease minimal erythema dosage.
The Finished Products
On the product front, dietary supplements remain the most popular, even though other segments are catching up. An example of a successful dietary supplement is Innéov, a joint venture between Nestlé and L’Oréal. This line offers health benefits in the form of draining and toning, anti-aging, anti-hair loss for men, sun tanning, anti-cellulite and dry skin products. The efficacy is proven not only through self-assessment data (which is common among cosmetic products), but also through in vitro, ex vivo and human clinical trials conforming to the gold standard used for pharmaceutical trials. Innéov has even pursued a health claim in Europe, but the application has not yet been considered.
In contrast, as far as efficacy is concerned, there is Nestlé-Glowelle, another dietary supplement. A ready-to-drink high antioxidant mix, its claim is: “the perfect addition to your beauty routine.” The formula is based on literature research, and the efficacy has been proven in self-assessment tests on a relatively small number of participants (40 women).
On the fortified water front, there is V-Water, an anti-aging drink with skin beauty benefits, again containing antioxidants. There are also several coffee-containing products claiming anti-aging or slimming benefits.
These products are often multifunctional, featuring anti-aging, brightening and immune boosting complexes. Superfruits and antioxidant-rich extracts from Ayurvedic and Traditional Chinese Medicine are also used. And there is a preference for organic, natural and/or fair-trade certified products.
For the future, requirements for claims will become stricter for nutricosmetics. As such, manufacturers should consider applying for health claims with the European Commission, abiding by the same gold standard rules that currently govern foods and dietary supplements.
The problem surrounds the claims and delivery of these products. The claims are cosmetic, but since they are consumed like dietary supplements or functional foods, they are regulated as food and therefore subject to international health claim regulations. Therefore, in Europe, any health-related (but not purely cosmetic) claim made on cosmeceuticals needs to be approved by the European Commission, same as any food or dietary supplement.
A Confusing but Growing Market
Despite this confusion, the market is growing. It is estimated to reach more than $6 billion by 2011, growing at a rate of 4.5%. Regionally, the Japanese market is about 10 years ahead of Europe and the U.S./Canada, while the fastest growing single market is the U.K., with a growth rate of 16% (2006-2011).
In Europe, the top claims revolve around antioxidant/anti-aging (60%), hair (20%) and skin improvement (20%), with top ingredients including plant/fruit extracts, carotenoids and phytosterols, followed by vitamins, hyaluronic acid, collagen and peptides.
Beauty drinks represent the strongest segment in Europe, with claims focused on anti-aging properties for skin. Within beverages, the strongest product categories include fruit and vegetable juices, tea, fortified waters, dairy (especially soy-based) and protein drinks.
One of the emerging segments is beauty foods, which includes snacks, bars, dairy and even confectionery and dental care products. Popular functional ingredients in these types of products are fruits, seeds, nuts, cocoa and probiotics.
Featured Ingredients
Among the ingredients used in nutricosmetics, antioxidants represent the most crucial. As free-radical scavengers they prevent the oxidation of cell compounds, which is generally considered one of the main mechanisms of premature aging.
There are almost 1000 different compounds with various chemical structures that have different modes of action as they target different mechanisms of antioxidant support. Most of the specific modes of action are not yet elucidated, but research points to combinations of various antioxidants generally being more effective. The best-known antioxidants are carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin and astaxanthin) and polyphenols (anthocyanidins, catechins, flavonoids, tannins and procyanidins such as Pycnogenol). Sources include tomatoes, fungi, algae, tea leaves, grape seed, citrus fruits and berries. The very popular and trendy superfruits are also full of antioxidants, and they have the added advantage of great taste and being high in consumer awareness.
Recently cocoa and its high flavanol content entered the limelight, infusing the confectionery market with highly welcome effects on health. Ingestion of flavonol-rich cocoa has been shown to increase skin density and hydration, as well as decrease minimal erythema dosage.
The Finished Products
On the product front, dietary supplements remain the most popular, even though other segments are catching up. An example of a successful dietary supplement is Innéov, a joint venture between Nestlé and L’Oréal. This line offers health benefits in the form of draining and toning, anti-aging, anti-hair loss for men, sun tanning, anti-cellulite and dry skin products. The efficacy is proven not only through self-assessment data (which is common among cosmetic products), but also through in vitro, ex vivo and human clinical trials conforming to the gold standard used for pharmaceutical trials. Innéov has even pursued a health claim in Europe, but the application has not yet been considered.
In contrast, as far as efficacy is concerned, there is Nestlé-Glowelle, another dietary supplement. A ready-to-drink high antioxidant mix, its claim is: “the perfect addition to your beauty routine.” The formula is based on literature research, and the efficacy has been proven in self-assessment tests on a relatively small number of participants (40 women).
On the fortified water front, there is V-Water, an anti-aging drink with skin beauty benefits, again containing antioxidants. There are also several coffee-containing products claiming anti-aging or slimming benefits.
These products are often multifunctional, featuring anti-aging, brightening and immune boosting complexes. Superfruits and antioxidant-rich extracts from Ayurvedic and Traditional Chinese Medicine are also used. And there is a preference for organic, natural and/or fair-trade certified products.
For the future, requirements for claims will become stricter for nutricosmetics. As such, manufacturers should consider applying for health claims with the European Commission, abiding by the same gold standard rules that currently govern foods and dietary supplements.