Marian Zboraj11.01.05
In late September, Nutraceuticals World, in partnership with Health & Beauty America (HBA), presented its second annual Inside Beauty conference, in addition to its first tradeshow. Co-located with HBA, the show and conference drew nearly 2800 attendees to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City. The second annual Inside Beauty conference, which was sponsored exclusively by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., Parsippany, NJ, brought together executives from the beauty, health and wellness industries to discuss the latest trends in these markets. The tradeshow brought together nearly 80 exhibitors serving the beauty and wellness industries, from raw material suppliers to finished product companies.
Both the personal care and health and wellness markets are growing at steady rates these days and there lies an exciting opportunity to marry the strengths in these businesses to create a new market called "Inside Beauty." While many people see this as a "win-win," education is still key and careful research and development is of utmost importance. Indeed, if the Inside Beauty market aims to succeed, money must be spent to reassure the consumer of the safety and benefits of beauty products that work internally. Before consumers try any of these new products, they will especially want to know what these products are supposed to do, how they will do it, how long it will take and what potential side effects to expect.
This Inside Beauty industry must work hard to pique consumers' interest to get them to try new things. If it worked for Botox, it could certainly work for Inside Beauty products. Consider this: the public is well informed about Botox, a form of poison that blocks nerve signals and causes paralysis, and they still routinely go to their doctor to receive injections. Yet the public is hesitant about taking beauty tablets orally. Inside Beauty products must gain consumers' trust in achieving true beauty from the inside out.
Despite the need for more education, the Inside Beauty phenomenon is growing across multiple product categories, from supplements to beverages to chocolates to foods, all of which are promising users a younger, healthier appearance. During the course of two days, nearly 25 speakers offered a comprehensive look at new marketing trends, product opportunities, consumer insights and the latest issues.
The first session of the conference opened up with a session titled, "New Frontiers in Beauty, Health & Wellness." It was led by Stuart Skorman, founder, chairman and CEO, Elephant Pharmacy, Berkeley, CA, who discussed a "retail revolution" that is currently taking place. Mr. Skorman emphasized that his company not only provides consumers with more choices, but it also places emphasis on the truth when explaining what exactly products do.
Elephant Pharmacy is just one retail outlet on the leading edge of this retail revolution. Also leading the charge is a store called eq-Life, Minneapolis, MN. Doreen Bortel, vice president of eq-Life, which is a subsidiary of Best Buy, explained this new retail format. She said the store prides itself on being a resource center, as well as a specialty store. It caters to different health conditions at various stages of a person's life. Within its walls, it contains a pharmacy, a personal care section, an electronics section, a section for exercise products, a section for media education equipment, a caf, and a salon-a true one-stop shopping center. Following along the trend in self-care, eq-Life, like many other new retail companies, gives the consumer the tools they need to manage their own health and lifestyle.
Cindy Angerhofer, director of botanical research at Aveda, continued the talk on new frontiers by speaking from an environmental perspective. In her presentation, titled "Beneficial Beauty for a Greener Future," she discussed why it is important today that companies become more environmentally and socially responsible. Today's public is more knowledgeable about the natural world and its vulnerability, so they are looking for companies that share their beliefs in caring for and preserving the integrity of these places. Aveda is trying to lead the way through such acts as using overseas shipping instead of air to reduce the amount of carbon dioxide released in the biosphere. On the social responsibility front, Aveda has also partnered with indigenous peoples around the world. Instead of taking over land, quickly using up the natural resources and displacing the inhabitants, Aveda works with knowledgeable natives in places such as Brazil and Bulgaria to cultivate and manufacture ingredients for use in the company's products.
Connie Petticrew, U.S. country manager for Ferrosan, Dallas, TX, rounded out the session on new frontiers by discussing the concept of nutracosmetics, which was interpreted by the equation nutraceuticals + cosmetics = nutracosmetics. An example is Ferrosan's Imedeen line of skin supplements, which work to improve the skin's quality, structure and appearance. According to Ferrosan, Imedeen oral supplements nourish the skin from within and defend it from harmful assailants such as UV rays from the sun and pollution, as well as nutritional neglect, alcohol consumption and smoking. Yet Ms. Petticrew still underlined the hesitancy, especially in the U.S., of taking over-the-counter beauty tablets because of the fear consumers have of putting a foreign substance into the bloodstream. She said a majority of the population is more likely to turn to a dermatologist or other trusted medical physician for oral products with their approval. As such, she said it is imperative that clinically proven research be provided to back up claims to assure the safety of products.
In the second session, "World Wise Beauty: Focusing on Regulatory Trends, Issues and Opportunities in the U.S. and Europe," speakers discussed the opportunities in the U.S. and Europe with regard to developing and marketing products. Led by Aylin Aktar, a former R&D and brand manager from Procter & Gamble and Avon Products Inc., respectively, the session covered a lot of ground from a global perspective. Ms. Aktar opened the session by highlighting where the opportunities lie for marrying the beauty and dietary supplement world to create "super-hit" products. She was able to do this by drawing on her combined experiences of working with nutraceuticals and personal care products
While the Food & Drug Association (FDA) regulates products and puts them into a class based on their intended use, the FTC is interested in substantiation of claims made in product advertising. Farah Ahmed, attorney at Collier Shannon Scott, Washington, D.C., discussed the regulatory aspects of successfully marketing a product in the U.S. Ahmed explained how claims used on food and dietary supplement labels fall into three categories: health claims, nutrient content claims and structure/function claims. "Statements that address a role of a specific substance in maintaining normal healthy structure or functions of the body are considered to be structure/function claims," said Ms. Ahmed. Structure/function claims may not explicitly link the relationship to a disease or health condition. "Unlike health claims, dietary guidance statements and structure/function claims are not subject to FDA review and authorization."
Joerg Gruenwald, president, analyze & realize ag, Berlin, Germany, focused on trends in the European market. He also touched on the concept of nutracosmetics and offered his perspectives on a wide array of ingredients that could be incorporated into Inside Beauty products or depending on the indication being targeted. A popular trend among Europeans revolves around natural and organic ingredients being utilized in products. To this end, Dr. Gruenwald highlighted several cosmetic herbs that fit this trend, including avocado, jojoba, olive and almond oils, sea kelp, yacon, soy and soy isoflavones, comfrey and gotu kola. In the area of skin care and acne, he discussed saw palmetto, green tea, soy, burdock, tea tree, tamanu, lemon, Chinese sage, bardana, wild pansy, kiwi, kokum and licorice. In the area of cellulite, he pointed out ingredients like meadowsweet, coffee plant, ginkgo, birch, common ivy and lemon. Antioxidants are also very important in the health and beauty sectors. Dr. Gruenwald discussed the roles of antioxidant vitamins like A, C and E, as well as minerals like selenium, iron, zinc, manganese and copper. Some of the other antioxidants he covered included grape seed extract, camu camu, acerola, baobab, ginkgo, white and green tea, turmeric, red clover, tomato, rosemary, evening primrose oil and cod liver oil. In the area of anti-aging, Dr. Gruenwald went into detail on the role of the coffee plant, white and green tea, comfrey, gotu kola and avocado. Also important for the future, he said, were ingredients that have the ability to stimulate cell regeneration, affect collagen and elastin, modulate skin lipid and oil production and regulate cell turnover. Ingredients that fit into these categories included proteins and peptides, specifically milk and whey ingredients.
The last session of the day explored the ever-changing roles of dietary supplements, cosmeceuticals and functional foods in a session titled, "Eat and Drink to Everlasting Beauty: Exploring the Roles of Dietary Supplements, Cosmeceuticals and Functional Foods." Functional foods are becoming more and more mainstream-just turn on the television to see commercials for Cheerios promoting how it helps lower cholesterol and Lipton iced tea, which continues to take advantage of the "full of antioxidants" message. According to Anthony Almada, MSc, founder of IMAGINutrition, Laguna Niguel, CA, the most important attribute for supplements, functional foods and beverages that provide a true beauty benefit is efficacy.
Another important attribute is taste, which is where Ecco Bella, Montclair, NJ, comes in. Ecco Bella's product, Health by Chocolate, offers consumers an alternative way to "look good by being bad." According to company CEO and founder, Sally Malanga, these chocolates provide beauty boosters like antioxidants, minerals, omega 3 fatty acids, lutein, lycopene, astaxanthin and fiber.
Rounding out this discussion was Rebecca James Gadberry, president of YG Laboratories, Huntington Beach, CA, who explained how products will aid in the advancements in anti-aging and forecasted how the industry will radically change in the coming years. "This is the biotech age," Ms. Gadberry said. "The chemical age is a thing of the past." She revealed how studies in genomics continue to uncover the ability we have to choose to express or not express our wrinkles. "The aging process is driven by genes expressed or suppressed by our lifestyle choices," she said. There are two DNA structures that support our skin's natural repair process: photosomes and ultrasomes. One of the main trends that Ms. Gadberry foresees becoming more prevalent is gene-targeting ingredients that can trigger gene suppression.
"Chronological aging will be a thing of the past," Ms. Gadberry claimed. Due to genetic advancements, the average lifespan in 25 years will extend to 120 years. In addition, consumers will have the ability to edit their genetic inheritance.
Day two of the Inside Beauty conference opened with a session called "Beauty & Health in the Eyes of the Beholder: Taking a Closer Look at the Beauty, Health & Wellness Consumer." The session was kicked off by Valerie Latona, group beauty director at Natural Health Magazine. Ms. Latona said that due to increased consumer interest, today's natural beauty industry has evolved into a $4 billion business. And it won't stop there, she said. "Natural beauty is expected to grow 50% by 2008," she stated.
So how can companies get in on the action? The first step is knowing what consumers are looking for in their health and beauty products. According to Ms. Latona, they want products that have "good-for-you elements," are environmentally sound and feature the natural benefits of botanicals. Ms. Latona also said consumers want decision-making tools. They want research-based information to be given on products, so they can decide for themselves if the products are right for them.
Laurie Demeritt, president of The Hartman Group, Bellevue, WA, followed up Ms. Latona to speak about retail anthropology-understanding how consumers really live, shop and purchase products. Some of the trends evolving in the industry, Ms. Demeritt said, include individualism and customization. Consumers believe they have their own special needs and they continue seek programs that are tailored to their lifestyles. Another trend is origin narratives. She said, "It's not that consumers don't care about scientific claims, they of course want a product to work, but today's consumer also wants to be emotionally connected to the item they are using." In short, she said, consumers are looking for products that have a soul. What better way to create soul than to tell the story behind a product-where is it from and why and how it was created.
Frank Lampe, vice president of content development at InnerDoorway HealthMedia, Inc., Boulder, CO, gave further insight into the consumer by differentiating between mainstream consumers and Lifestyles of Health and Sustainability (LOHAS) consumers. The LOHAS market is represented as a $229 billion U.S. marketplace for goods and services focused on health, the environment, social justice, personal development and sustainable living. Approximately 30% of the adults in the U.S., or 63 million people, are currently considered LOHAS consumers. Mr. Lampe classified LOHAS into three groups. The first group he described chooses environmentally friendly products. This pertains to the manufacturing of the product, as well as the packaging it is sold in. LOHAS consumers are also advocates for products they believe in, and they constantly recommend effective items to their peers. Lastly, LOHAS consumers are willing to pay more for their products, typically about 20% more. The beauty, health and wellness industries will have to consider the needs of this group of educated consumers as it continues to grow.
The second session of the day was chaired by Ken Milligan, principal, Health Strategy Consulting, Providence, RI, who led the audience and panelists on a journey through the anti-aging market. This session, titled "Clock Stoppers: Understanding Anti-Aging Factors and the Secrets to Marketing Longevity," uncovered opportunities in the market for "anti-aging" solutions. Everyone is getting older, so interest in growing old gracefully is not expected to change. Not only do industries have an opportunity to market to the health-conscious baby boomer segment-half U.S. population is 50 or older!-but also to the younger generations as well because younger consumers want to stay younger.
But as Dr. Barry Sears, president of the Inflammation Research Foundation and Zone Diet creator, reminded everyone, stopping the aging process is impossible. He said a more realistic and responsible approach would be to market products that address inflammation because it is a key factor in many major chronic diseases, as well as the aging process. Early indicators that warn when inflammation levels are dangerous include a C-reactive protein assessment. Another good measurement of inflammation is looking at the ratio of arachidonic acid (AA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA). The AA/EPA ratio in the blood gives a precise insight into the balance of the precursors of pro-inflammatory eicosanoids (derived from AA) and the anti-inflammatory eicosanoids (derived from EPA) in each of the 60 trillion cells in the body. It is the balance of these eicosanoid precursors that determines the actual extent of silent inflammation in the body. The first step to help the fight against inflammation, Dr. Sears said, is weight loss. "The fatter you are the faster you age," he commented. He went on to say that any diet that uses "high" or "low" in the title should be avoided because "too much or not enough of anything is never a good idea." The key to dieting is moderation. Another way to control inflammation is to take high doses of fish oil. Depending on the state of wellness of a person, he/she will have to take between 2.5 grams and 10 grams of fish oil per day.
An additional way to help fight against the effects of aging is by consuming specific nutrients and foods to protect the skin, as discussed by Paul Flowerman, president of PL Thomas, Morristown, NJ. He explained how the following nutrient/food choices can aid in the fight against skin damage and wrinkles: lycopene reduces redness and sunburn; Pycnogenol binds to elastin and inhibits its degradation; alpha-lipoic acid increases the effect of antioxidants on the skin; pomegranate has strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties; and green tea can absorb ultraviolet radiation. GliSODin, another potent antioxidant, also protects the skin from sun exposure and reduces skin damage.
The third session, "Savvy Spa Marketing," discussed how the spa industry is continuing to grow due to high demand. The session was led by Larry Oskin, renowned salon and spa expert, and president, Marketing Solutions Inc ., Fairfax, VA, who said the key to success in thismarket is finding a "special niche."
A major trend occurring in the spa market today revolves around the science of electrolyzed water. According to Priti Odedra, vice president of Revenir and Mikuni America Corp., functional water, defined as the ability to produce acidic and alkaline, can offer many benefits such as being antimicrobial, helping speed the healing of skin and the ability to kill bacteria. Vitamin C is also being used in this industry due to its ability to penetrate the dermal layer of skin to increase the number of protons on the skin when doing electrolysis-an abundance of protons prevents skin damage. Vitamin C also promotes collagen growth.
The final session of the Inside Beauty conference, "Advanced Beauty, Health & Wellness Category Breakers: Competitive Marketing Essentials for Cutting Edge Businesses Attentive to Futuristic Trends," was chaired by Darrin Duber-Smith, president of Green Marketing, Nederland, CO. While the natural product market is flourishing, Mr. Duber-Smith pointed out that the industry has yet to define/regulate the term "natural." It is instead controlled by the different channels that carry the items. With many productss on the market abusing the term and misleading the consumer, Mr. Duber-Smith said it is paramount that the industry quickly mobilize to define "natural."
As more brands appear on the market, Mr. Duber-Smith says there will be greater scrutiny of ingredients and packaging. The safety of products is essential. Users need to know what they are putting onto their skin and into their body. An increase in clinical studies will allow companies to back up their claims.
Mr. Duber-Smith said further that a winning marketing strategy consists of the four P's: Product, Price, Place and Promotion. He also mentioned the importance of how to merchandise. Ingestibles like nutritional supplements for skin and nail care, he said, need to be put into the outer health section to gain more traffic and awareness. Increased penetration of mainstream channels and multi-channel strategies will also help the market to thrive. The Internet is currently experiencing an influx in health and wellness consumers. There are also prospects for companies to fill a void for high demand sectors such as men's products, ethnic products and multi-functional products.
Tanya Seaton, lead analyst for Datamonitor, New York, NY, focused on innovation, specifically in products geared toward physical health and external beauty. In order for a particular innovation to be successful in dollar terms, Ms. Seaton believes there are certain criteria that should be met. Before launching a product, she said companies have to determine who exactly the consumers of the product will be; make sure that they understand the benefits; make sure they believe the product is great; make sure the product fits into their lifestyle; and finally, that the product has a truly unique selling proposition. Ms. Seaton also discussed the rising popularity of functional foods. Some products that consumers are readily using include yogurt fortified with fiber or iron, immune system support from cereal, pregnancy specific comfort food and soft chew supplements for women.
Dr. Julie Hirsch, director of product development at WellGen, New Brunswick, NJ, wrapped up the conference with a presentation discussing the future for health and beauty. She said healthier bodies will rely on genetics, environment and behavior, which led her to explain the nutrigenomic and cosmeceuticals movement. The term nutrigenomics relates food as a solution to prevent chronic and acute diseases, and addresses the role of diet in gene-expression. "We can help control our destiny through the things we eat," said Dr. Hirsch. "What we eat affects our genes and interaction with our DNA."
She also explored nutrigenetics, which is a subsection of nutrigenomics, referring to how hereditable genetic makeup predisposes a response to nutrition. She also covered an emerging area called cosmegenomics, which relates to how ingestible products affect genes related to beauty. Good examples of this are functional foods for skin/anti-aging. A subset of cosmegenomics is cosmegenetics, which is how hereditable genetic make-up predisposes a response to ingestibles or topicals.
But, Dr. Hirsch was quick to point out that even as these new areas continue to emerge, the industry still needs to focus on strong science, media attention and appropriate marketing in order to achieve success.NW
Both the personal care and health and wellness markets are growing at steady rates these days and there lies an exciting opportunity to marry the strengths in these businesses to create a new market called "Inside Beauty." While many people see this as a "win-win," education is still key and careful research and development is of utmost importance. Indeed, if the Inside Beauty market aims to succeed, money must be spent to reassure the consumer of the safety and benefits of beauty products that work internally. Before consumers try any of these new products, they will especially want to know what these products are supposed to do, how they will do it, how long it will take and what potential side effects to expect.
This Inside Beauty industry must work hard to pique consumers' interest to get them to try new things. If it worked for Botox, it could certainly work for Inside Beauty products. Consider this: the public is well informed about Botox, a form of poison that blocks nerve signals and causes paralysis, and they still routinely go to their doctor to receive injections. Yet the public is hesitant about taking beauty tablets orally. Inside Beauty products must gain consumers' trust in achieving true beauty from the inside out.
Despite the need for more education, the Inside Beauty phenomenon is growing across multiple product categories, from supplements to beverages to chocolates to foods, all of which are promising users a younger, healthier appearance. During the course of two days, nearly 25 speakers offered a comprehensive look at new marketing trends, product opportunities, consumer insights and the latest issues.
New Frontiers in Beauty, Health & Wellness
The first session of the conference opened up with a session titled, "New Frontiers in Beauty, Health & Wellness." It was led by Stuart Skorman, founder, chairman and CEO, Elephant Pharmacy, Berkeley, CA, who discussed a "retail revolution" that is currently taking place. Mr. Skorman emphasized that his company not only provides consumers with more choices, but it also places emphasis on the truth when explaining what exactly products do.
Elephant Pharmacy is just one retail outlet on the leading edge of this retail revolution. Also leading the charge is a store called eq-Life, Minneapolis, MN. Doreen Bortel, vice president of eq-Life, which is a subsidiary of Best Buy, explained this new retail format. She said the store prides itself on being a resource center, as well as a specialty store. It caters to different health conditions at various stages of a person's life. Within its walls, it contains a pharmacy, a personal care section, an electronics section, a section for exercise products, a section for media education equipment, a caf, and a salon-a true one-stop shopping center. Following along the trend in self-care, eq-Life, like many other new retail companies, gives the consumer the tools they need to manage their own health and lifestyle.
Cindy Angerhofer, director of botanical research at Aveda, continued the talk on new frontiers by speaking from an environmental perspective. In her presentation, titled "Beneficial Beauty for a Greener Future," she discussed why it is important today that companies become more environmentally and socially responsible. Today's public is more knowledgeable about the natural world and its vulnerability, so they are looking for companies that share their beliefs in caring for and preserving the integrity of these places. Aveda is trying to lead the way through such acts as using overseas shipping instead of air to reduce the amount of carbon dioxide released in the biosphere. On the social responsibility front, Aveda has also partnered with indigenous peoples around the world. Instead of taking over land, quickly using up the natural resources and displacing the inhabitants, Aveda works with knowledgeable natives in places such as Brazil and Bulgaria to cultivate and manufacture ingredients for use in the company's products.
Connie Petticrew, U.S. country manager for Ferrosan, Dallas, TX, rounded out the session on new frontiers by discussing the concept of nutracosmetics, which was interpreted by the equation nutraceuticals + cosmetics = nutracosmetics. An example is Ferrosan's Imedeen line of skin supplements, which work to improve the skin's quality, structure and appearance. According to Ferrosan, Imedeen oral supplements nourish the skin from within and defend it from harmful assailants such as UV rays from the sun and pollution, as well as nutritional neglect, alcohol consumption and smoking. Yet Ms. Petticrew still underlined the hesitancy, especially in the U.S., of taking over-the-counter beauty tablets because of the fear consumers have of putting a foreign substance into the bloodstream. She said a majority of the population is more likely to turn to a dermatologist or other trusted medical physician for oral products with their approval. As such, she said it is imperative that clinically proven research be provided to back up claims to assure the safety of products.
World Wise Beauty
In the second session, "World Wise Beauty: Focusing on Regulatory Trends, Issues and Opportunities in the U.S. and Europe," speakers discussed the opportunities in the U.S. and Europe with regard to developing and marketing products. Led by Aylin Aktar, a former R&D and brand manager from Procter & Gamble and Avon Products Inc., respectively, the session covered a lot of ground from a global perspective. Ms. Aktar opened the session by highlighting where the opportunities lie for marrying the beauty and dietary supplement world to create "super-hit" products. She was able to do this by drawing on her combined experiences of working with nutraceuticals and personal care products
While the Food & Drug Association (FDA) regulates products and puts them into a class based on their intended use, the FTC is interested in substantiation of claims made in product advertising. Farah Ahmed, attorney at Collier Shannon Scott, Washington, D.C., discussed the regulatory aspects of successfully marketing a product in the U.S. Ahmed explained how claims used on food and dietary supplement labels fall into three categories: health claims, nutrient content claims and structure/function claims. "Statements that address a role of a specific substance in maintaining normal healthy structure or functions of the body are considered to be structure/function claims," said Ms. Ahmed. Structure/function claims may not explicitly link the relationship to a disease or health condition. "Unlike health claims, dietary guidance statements and structure/function claims are not subject to FDA review and authorization."
Joerg Gruenwald, president, analyze & realize ag, Berlin, Germany, focused on trends in the European market. He also touched on the concept of nutracosmetics and offered his perspectives on a wide array of ingredients that could be incorporated into Inside Beauty products or depending on the indication being targeted. A popular trend among Europeans revolves around natural and organic ingredients being utilized in products. To this end, Dr. Gruenwald highlighted several cosmetic herbs that fit this trend, including avocado, jojoba, olive and almond oils, sea kelp, yacon, soy and soy isoflavones, comfrey and gotu kola. In the area of skin care and acne, he discussed saw palmetto, green tea, soy, burdock, tea tree, tamanu, lemon, Chinese sage, bardana, wild pansy, kiwi, kokum and licorice. In the area of cellulite, he pointed out ingredients like meadowsweet, coffee plant, ginkgo, birch, common ivy and lemon. Antioxidants are also very important in the health and beauty sectors. Dr. Gruenwald discussed the roles of antioxidant vitamins like A, C and E, as well as minerals like selenium, iron, zinc, manganese and copper. Some of the other antioxidants he covered included grape seed extract, camu camu, acerola, baobab, ginkgo, white and green tea, turmeric, red clover, tomato, rosemary, evening primrose oil and cod liver oil. In the area of anti-aging, Dr. Gruenwald went into detail on the role of the coffee plant, white and green tea, comfrey, gotu kola and avocado. Also important for the future, he said, were ingredients that have the ability to stimulate cell regeneration, affect collagen and elastin, modulate skin lipid and oil production and regulate cell turnover. Ingredients that fit into these categories included proteins and peptides, specifically milk and whey ingredients.
Eat & Drink to Everlasting Beauty
The last session of the day explored the ever-changing roles of dietary supplements, cosmeceuticals and functional foods in a session titled, "Eat and Drink to Everlasting Beauty: Exploring the Roles of Dietary Supplements, Cosmeceuticals and Functional Foods." Functional foods are becoming more and more mainstream-just turn on the television to see commercials for Cheerios promoting how it helps lower cholesterol and Lipton iced tea, which continues to take advantage of the "full of antioxidants" message. According to Anthony Almada, MSc, founder of IMAGINutrition, Laguna Niguel, CA, the most important attribute for supplements, functional foods and beverages that provide a true beauty benefit is efficacy.
Another important attribute is taste, which is where Ecco Bella, Montclair, NJ, comes in. Ecco Bella's product, Health by Chocolate, offers consumers an alternative way to "look good by being bad." According to company CEO and founder, Sally Malanga, these chocolates provide beauty boosters like antioxidants, minerals, omega 3 fatty acids, lutein, lycopene, astaxanthin and fiber.
Rounding out this discussion was Rebecca James Gadberry, president of YG Laboratories, Huntington Beach, CA, who explained how products will aid in the advancements in anti-aging and forecasted how the industry will radically change in the coming years. "This is the biotech age," Ms. Gadberry said. "The chemical age is a thing of the past." She revealed how studies in genomics continue to uncover the ability we have to choose to express or not express our wrinkles. "The aging process is driven by genes expressed or suppressed by our lifestyle choices," she said. There are two DNA structures that support our skin's natural repair process: photosomes and ultrasomes. One of the main trends that Ms. Gadberry foresees becoming more prevalent is gene-targeting ingredients that can trigger gene suppression.
"Chronological aging will be a thing of the past," Ms. Gadberry claimed. Due to genetic advancements, the average lifespan in 25 years will extend to 120 years. In addition, consumers will have the ability to edit their genetic inheritance.
Beauty & Health in the Eyes of the Beholder
Day two of the Inside Beauty conference opened with a session called "Beauty & Health in the Eyes of the Beholder: Taking a Closer Look at the Beauty, Health & Wellness Consumer." The session was kicked off by Valerie Latona, group beauty director at Natural Health Magazine. Ms. Latona said that due to increased consumer interest, today's natural beauty industry has evolved into a $4 billion business. And it won't stop there, she said. "Natural beauty is expected to grow 50% by 2008," she stated.
So how can companies get in on the action? The first step is knowing what consumers are looking for in their health and beauty products. According to Ms. Latona, they want products that have "good-for-you elements," are environmentally sound and feature the natural benefits of botanicals. Ms. Latona also said consumers want decision-making tools. They want research-based information to be given on products, so they can decide for themselves if the products are right for them.
Laurie Demeritt, president of The Hartman Group, Bellevue, WA, followed up Ms. Latona to speak about retail anthropology-understanding how consumers really live, shop and purchase products. Some of the trends evolving in the industry, Ms. Demeritt said, include individualism and customization. Consumers believe they have their own special needs and they continue seek programs that are tailored to their lifestyles. Another trend is origin narratives. She said, "It's not that consumers don't care about scientific claims, they of course want a product to work, but today's consumer also wants to be emotionally connected to the item they are using." In short, she said, consumers are looking for products that have a soul. What better way to create soul than to tell the story behind a product-where is it from and why and how it was created.
Frank Lampe, vice president of content development at InnerDoorway HealthMedia, Inc., Boulder, CO, gave further insight into the consumer by differentiating between mainstream consumers and Lifestyles of Health and Sustainability (LOHAS) consumers. The LOHAS market is represented as a $229 billion U.S. marketplace for goods and services focused on health, the environment, social justice, personal development and sustainable living. Approximately 30% of the adults in the U.S., or 63 million people, are currently considered LOHAS consumers. Mr. Lampe classified LOHAS into three groups. The first group he described chooses environmentally friendly products. This pertains to the manufacturing of the product, as well as the packaging it is sold in. LOHAS consumers are also advocates for products they believe in, and they constantly recommend effective items to their peers. Lastly, LOHAS consumers are willing to pay more for their products, typically about 20% more. The beauty, health and wellness industries will have to consider the needs of this group of educated consumers as it continues to grow.
Clock Stoppers: Anti-Aging Factors & Secrets to Marketing Longevity
The second session of the day was chaired by Ken Milligan, principal, Health Strategy Consulting, Providence, RI, who led the audience and panelists on a journey through the anti-aging market. This session, titled "Clock Stoppers: Understanding Anti-Aging Factors and the Secrets to Marketing Longevity," uncovered opportunities in the market for "anti-aging" solutions. Everyone is getting older, so interest in growing old gracefully is not expected to change. Not only do industries have an opportunity to market to the health-conscious baby boomer segment-half U.S. population is 50 or older!-but also to the younger generations as well because younger consumers want to stay younger.
But as Dr. Barry Sears, president of the Inflammation Research Foundation and Zone Diet creator, reminded everyone, stopping the aging process is impossible. He said a more realistic and responsible approach would be to market products that address inflammation because it is a key factor in many major chronic diseases, as well as the aging process. Early indicators that warn when inflammation levels are dangerous include a C-reactive protein assessment. Another good measurement of inflammation is looking at the ratio of arachidonic acid (AA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA). The AA/EPA ratio in the blood gives a precise insight into the balance of the precursors of pro-inflammatory eicosanoids (derived from AA) and the anti-inflammatory eicosanoids (derived from EPA) in each of the 60 trillion cells in the body. It is the balance of these eicosanoid precursors that determines the actual extent of silent inflammation in the body. The first step to help the fight against inflammation, Dr. Sears said, is weight loss. "The fatter you are the faster you age," he commented. He went on to say that any diet that uses "high" or "low" in the title should be avoided because "too much or not enough of anything is never a good idea." The key to dieting is moderation. Another way to control inflammation is to take high doses of fish oil. Depending on the state of wellness of a person, he/she will have to take between 2.5 grams and 10 grams of fish oil per day.
An additional way to help fight against the effects of aging is by consuming specific nutrients and foods to protect the skin, as discussed by Paul Flowerman, president of PL Thomas, Morristown, NJ. He explained how the following nutrient/food choices can aid in the fight against skin damage and wrinkles: lycopene reduces redness and sunburn; Pycnogenol binds to elastin and inhibits its degradation; alpha-lipoic acid increases the effect of antioxidants on the skin; pomegranate has strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties; and green tea can absorb ultraviolet radiation. GliSODin, another potent antioxidant, also protects the skin from sun exposure and reduces skin damage.
The Spa Market
The third session, "Savvy Spa Marketing," discussed how the spa industry is continuing to grow due to high demand. The session was led by Larry Oskin, renowned salon and spa expert, and president, Marketing Solutions Inc ., Fairfax, VA, who said the key to success in thismarket is finding a "special niche."
A major trend occurring in the spa market today revolves around the science of electrolyzed water. According to Priti Odedra, vice president of Revenir and Mikuni America Corp., functional water, defined as the ability to produce acidic and alkaline, can offer many benefits such as being antimicrobial, helping speed the healing of skin and the ability to kill bacteria. Vitamin C is also being used in this industry due to its ability to penetrate the dermal layer of skin to increase the number of protons on the skin when doing electrolysis-an abundance of protons prevents skin damage. Vitamin C also promotes collagen growth.
The Future of Beauty, Health & Wellness
The final session of the Inside Beauty conference, "Advanced Beauty, Health & Wellness Category Breakers: Competitive Marketing Essentials for Cutting Edge Businesses Attentive to Futuristic Trends," was chaired by Darrin Duber-Smith, president of Green Marketing, Nederland, CO. While the natural product market is flourishing, Mr. Duber-Smith pointed out that the industry has yet to define/regulate the term "natural." It is instead controlled by the different channels that carry the items. With many productss on the market abusing the term and misleading the consumer, Mr. Duber-Smith said it is paramount that the industry quickly mobilize to define "natural."
As more brands appear on the market, Mr. Duber-Smith says there will be greater scrutiny of ingredients and packaging. The safety of products is essential. Users need to know what they are putting onto their skin and into their body. An increase in clinical studies will allow companies to back up their claims.
Mr. Duber-Smith said further that a winning marketing strategy consists of the four P's: Product, Price, Place and Promotion. He also mentioned the importance of how to merchandise. Ingestibles like nutritional supplements for skin and nail care, he said, need to be put into the outer health section to gain more traffic and awareness. Increased penetration of mainstream channels and multi-channel strategies will also help the market to thrive. The Internet is currently experiencing an influx in health and wellness consumers. There are also prospects for companies to fill a void for high demand sectors such as men's products, ethnic products and multi-functional products.
Tanya Seaton, lead analyst for Datamonitor, New York, NY, focused on innovation, specifically in products geared toward physical health and external beauty. In order for a particular innovation to be successful in dollar terms, Ms. Seaton believes there are certain criteria that should be met. Before launching a product, she said companies have to determine who exactly the consumers of the product will be; make sure that they understand the benefits; make sure they believe the product is great; make sure the product fits into their lifestyle; and finally, that the product has a truly unique selling proposition. Ms. Seaton also discussed the rising popularity of functional foods. Some products that consumers are readily using include yogurt fortified with fiber or iron, immune system support from cereal, pregnancy specific comfort food and soft chew supplements for women.
Dr. Julie Hirsch, director of product development at WellGen, New Brunswick, NJ, wrapped up the conference with a presentation discussing the future for health and beauty. She said healthier bodies will rely on genetics, environment and behavior, which led her to explain the nutrigenomic and cosmeceuticals movement. The term nutrigenomics relates food as a solution to prevent chronic and acute diseases, and addresses the role of diet in gene-expression. "We can help control our destiny through the things we eat," said Dr. Hirsch. "What we eat affects our genes and interaction with our DNA."
She also explored nutrigenetics, which is a subsection of nutrigenomics, referring to how hereditable genetic makeup predisposes a response to nutrition. She also covered an emerging area called cosmegenomics, which relates to how ingestible products affect genes related to beauty. Good examples of this are functional foods for skin/anti-aging. A subset of cosmegenomics is cosmegenetics, which is how hereditable genetic make-up predisposes a response to ingestibles or topicals.
But, Dr. Hirsch was quick to point out that even as these new areas continue to emerge, the industry still needs to focus on strong science, media attention and appropriate marketing in order to achieve success.NW
