Dietary supplements remain the dominant delivery format for beauty from within products, totaling $3.7 billion in 2013 and increasing 4% in value, according to Euromonitor International. Beauty foods remain a niche market, while the emerging beverage segment offers a ripe growth opportunity.

Overall, the nutricosmetic market can be characterized as “healthy,” according to Svetlana Uduslivaia, senior research analyst at Euromonitor.

Regionally, Asia-Pacific remains the largest market by far for nutricosmetics, with products in Japan and China well established. However, Taiwan, Thailand, South Korea, the Philippines and Vietnam are seeing strong growth, Ms. Uduslivaia added. “Skin care is very much top-of-mind for consumers.”

Western Europe is a very distant second in terms of market size, driven by continued product development and the approval of several beauty-related ingredient claims from the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA). For example, biotin, copper, iodine, manganese, niacin, riboflavin (vitamin B2), selenium, vitamins A, C, E and zinc all benefit from EFSA-approved claims.

North America remains a challenging market, according to Ms. Uduslivaia. Also dominated by dietary supplement products, sales have picked back up since the recession, to about $70 million in 2013. However, with consumer awareness low and skepticism high, opportunities to educate potential customers could help drive and expand the market moving forward. Still, regulatory challenges and advertising restrictions on ingredients and product/benefit claims will be an obstacle, but not an impenetrable one.

Ms. Uduslivaia noted that social media may be a useful tool for manufacturers attempting to raise awareness, allowing companies to communicate directly with consumers looking to access product information.

The Road Ahead
Looking toward the future, while dietary supplements will remain the key delivery format globally, beverages are expected to pick up the pace, with an estimated CAGR of 6% in constant value terms overall, according to Euromonitor.

“As dietary supplements will remain the principal delivery format for nutricosmetics, watch for types of supplements with stronger growth opportunities and regulatory approval to improve category acceptance by regulatory bodies, retailers and consumers,” said
Ms. Uduslivaia.

Vitamins A, C and E specifically are expected to experience future growth, and omega supplements positioned for beauty from within could see a positive uptick as well.

The Asia-Pacific region will maintain positive growth in nutricosmetics, foods and beverages, at around 5% CAGR in constant value between 2013 and 2018, driven by beverages.

Although growing from a much smaller base, Eastern Europe and Latin America are expected to see a faster rate of growth as more products are launched; consumer awareness is expected to increase as well.

Regulations, meanwhile, provide both challenges and opportunities. “Watch for approved claims and ingredients to ease market entry, launch new products and overcome consumer skepticism,” said Ms. Uduslivaia. “Ongoing research for approved ingredients is often publicized in the media, helping to raise awareness and product credibility.”

Many Asian personal care and nutraceutical companies are expanding their product lines into topical products or into nutraceuticals, according to Erika Tchang, business development manager - Wellnex Collagen Peptides, Nitta Gelatin NA, Inc., Morrisville, NC. “These companies are capitalizing on complementary product lines outside of their core products and their loyal customer base to expand into wellness and/or cosmetics. This could be a significant opportunity for both U.S. and European companies to diversify and build their product portfolios by pursuing a total body approach to anti-aging.”

Ingredient Spotlight
Strong science that supports products and ingredients will be imperative to the long-term success of the nutricosmetic market, which as a whole has seen growth largely driven by Millennials in recent years, noted Victor Ferrari, CEO of Horphag Research, Geneva, Switzerland.

“Among both men and women, we’re seeing a continued trend that consumers are looking for safe, evidence-based natural products and supplements,” he said. “Natural ingredients that have proven benefits to overall wellness in addition to cosmeceutical benefits are of interest to consumers who are looking for more than just cosmetic value.”

Pycnogenol, a standardized natural extract from French maritime pine bark, is widely used in topical and oral applications for various skin care indications. A unique combination of pharmacological functions, Pycnogenol provides an variety of health benefits for skin health, according to the company.

For example, a study published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology in 2012 showed that daily supplementation with 75 mg of Pycnogenol over a 12 week span enhanced skin elasticity and hydration as well as decreased skin wrinkles.

Additionally, a study appearing in Panminerva Medica in 2014 indicated daily supplementation with 150 mg of Pycnogenol over a 12 week span decreased the area of skin affected by psoriasis, while reducing redness and the need for additional medications.

“Pycnogenol helps reduce physical signs of aging, skin pigmentation and dryness because of its strong bond to the amino acids, which in turn helps protect against free radical damage and hydrates the skin,” said Mr. Ferrari. “Furthermore, Pycnogenol contributes to skin health by stimulating new production of hyaluronic acid and collagen in human skin.”

Recent clinical data also suggests collagen can be used in various applications and formats to combat the signs of aging.

According to Nitta Gelatin’s Ms. Tchang, “Wellnex collagen peptides stimulate collagen synthesis in our fibroblasts, a key component of our skin. Because these products enhance collagen production, subjects in double-blind, clinical trials saw increased moisture, improved skin texture and reduced fine lines and UV-induced spots. Topically, Wellnex products create a barrier on the skin, helping to retain skin moisture. Our products allow personal care, dietary supplement and/or food companies to formulate with an ingredient that truly has results from the inside and out.”

Felipe Chaluppe, president, Gelnex/In3gredients, the U.S. arm of the Brazil-based gelatin manufacturer, noted that collagen as a functional ingredient not only covers the beauty-from-within segment, but also the wider health and wellness category, contributing as a protein source and improving joint and bone health.

A deficit of some amino acids in the body is one of the main causes of joint pain, muscle and bone frailty, tendinitis and arthritis, he added. “The ingestion of collagen is fundamental to supplementing this deficit of amino acids. Collagen stimulates the body’s own production, which will improve skin, joint and bone health, besides being helpful in maintaining the health of hair, nails and skin.”

The benefits of collagen ingestion have been the subject of several scientific and clinical studies, he said. “Physiologists from Kiel University in Germany have carried out a study which pointed out that the use of collagen had significantly stimulated its production in cartilage cells. The Brazilian Society of Rheumatology recognizes the benefits of collagen to patients with arthritis, since this protein can help to improve cartilage health.”

Peptinex collagen peptides from Gelnex are an excellent source of bioavailable protein, are 100% traceable to their raw material origins and produced with extensive attention to environmental and social responsibility, Mr. Chaluppe noted. “Peptinex collagen is a high-quality and easily digestible protein that contains neither carbohydrates nor fats. It is gluten-free, contains no purines, no additives and no preservatives.”

Overall, demand for beauty, skin care and anti-aging products is reflective of the wider trend toward natural wellness products among health-conscious consumers.