By Sean Moloughney, Editor09.01.21
Report Anticipates Significant Long-Term Growth for Collagen on Horizon
Collagen’s star power is rising fast thanks to scientifically backed health claims, a well-defined end-user group, diversification of health benefits, and flexibility of formulation applications.
According to an analysis conducted by research firm Frost & Sullivan, the market for collagen peptides—the hydrolyzed and most bioavailable form of collagen—is already growing at about 8% a year (CAGR, 2020-2024). However, sales are still a long way from their peak. With vast untapped potential to expand into new markets, applications, and products, Frost & Sullivan expects momentum to accelerate and growth to reach new heights.
The findings are published in a recent report, “Is collagen here to stay?” which was commissioned by PB Leiner, supplier of SOLUGEL collagen peptides. The report indicates that, based on the developmental path followed by more mature health ingredients such as probiotics and omega-3s, collagen peptides are still in the very early stages of their product lifecycle.
As a result, market penetration for collagen peptide ingredients and products remains relatively low across Europe, North America, and Asia-Pacific. In the North American market, for example, collagen peptides’ penetration rate is estimated to be at least 35 times lower than omega-3s, indicating significant potential for growth.
The analysis also said that collagen peptides rank from “good” to “excellent” against the critical success factors for health ingredients. These include scientifically backed health claims, a well-defined end-user group, diversification of health benefits, and the capability to be incorporated into foods and beverages. The authors of the report concluded that collagen peptides have all the necessary characteristics to become a highly successful ingredient that will support the health of millions of people worldwide.
Figure 1. Market Development Path of Health Ingredients
“In comparison with other, more mature health ingredient categories, collagen peptides are still at a relatively early stage of their evolution across all continents,” said Tomasz Bochenski, senior consultant at Frost & Sullivan and lead researcher on the report. “This means significant opportunities remain for manufacturers, retailers and investors. Developing new applications for collagen peptides in terms of functionality and product innovation will further expand the market, allowing it to reach new customers who might not yet be aware of the many scientifically proven health benefits of collagen peptides.”
Cindy Dekeyser, global business intelligence manager at PB Leiner, added, “Frost & Sullivan’s analysis perfectly aligns with what we and other observers have seen: collagen peptides are starting to go mainstream, gaining wider acceptance and familiarity among end consumers. This means consumer requirements are becoming increasingly sophisticated, with more and more differentiation in product concepts and quality needed to stand out from the crowd. That is where we, as a global leader in collagen, step in; we assist our customers in translating trends into on-trend concepts. This customized support, ranging from market intelligence to new product development to technical support, significantly enhances customer success.”
Research on Strawberries Uncovers Healthy Aging Benefits
Three recent studies have suggested that strawberries may be associated with slowing down aging of the brain, cardiovascular system, and gut microbiome.
Cognitive Health Benefits. With age, the brain can experience changes that result in impairments in learning, memory, gait, and balance. Sometimes these changes lead to early cognitive decline, disability, or falls among older adults.
In a study published in the British Journal of Nutrition (2021) by Dr. Barbara Shukitt-Hale and her team at the USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging at Tufts University, 37 healthy older adults participated in a two-arm trial in which they consumed either freeze-dried strawberry powder beverages (24 g/day, equivalent to two cups of fresh strawberries) or a calorie-matched control powder for 90 days. Participants completed a battery of balance, gait, and cognitive tests at baseline, midpoint, and conclusion of the trial.
Participants in the strawberry group performed better on spatial memory tasks and word recognition tests relative to those in the control group. These findings show that the addition of strawberry to the diets of healthy, older adults can improve some aspects of cognition, although more studies with a larger sample size and longer follow-up are needed to confirm this finding.
“Based on these promising results in healthy individuals, we are now conducting a study among older adults whose health is compromised and we expect to see even greater improvement following strawberry supplementation,” said Shukitt-Hale.
This research follows earlier studies that indicated diets higher in long-term flavonoid intake, from foods such as strawberries, could contribute to reducing the risk of Alzheimer’s Disease and related dementias (Ann Neurol, 2012; Nutrients, 2019; Am J Clin Nutr, 2020).
Heart Health Benefits. Endothelium is a thin layer of cells that lines every blood vessel in the body. It’s responsible for the relaxation and constriction of veins and arteries, playing a major role in blood flow, blood pressure regulation, blood clotting, and wound healing. High total cholesterol and LDL (“bad” cholesterol) can impair the function of the endothelium, clog arteries, and lead to heart disease, particularly in later years of life.
A new study from Dr. Britt Burton Freeman’s team of researchers at Illinois Institute of Technology published in the Journal of Nutrition in 2021 asked middle-aged adults with moderately-high LDL cholesterol to drink beverages two times a day made from freeze-dried strawberry powder (25 g in each) or a control powder for four weeks. After completing their first assigned beverage, they switched to the other one (strawberry/control) for an additional four weeks.
The health of the endothelium, measured by flow-mediated dilation, improved in the strawberry group one hour after drinking the beverage. Systolic blood pressure decreased two hours after drinking the strawberry beverage compared to the control, and this was more pronounced four weeks after the strawberry intervention.
The findings suggest that strawberries may improve endothelial function and be considered a specific food to include in a heart-healthy diet for aging adults with moderately-high cholesterol.
Gut Health Benefits. Strawberries act as prebiotics and may increase gut bacteria associated with lean body weight, health, and longevity, according to a study out of the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) published in Nutrition Research.
The pilot study led by Dr. Zhaoping Li and her team at the Center for Human Nutrition considered whether strawberries would alter the gut microbiota. Rich in vitamin C and polyphenols, strawberries have already shown their potential to decrease LDL cholesterol, blood glucose, insulin resistance, and other disease risk factors (J Nutr, 2014; Food Funct, 2020; Mol Nutr Food Res, 2016). The gut microbiota is the next frontier for scientific exploration of strawberries’ impact on health.
Fourteen adults were asked to follow a “beige” diet low in fiber and polyphenols for 8 weeks. Two weeks in, a 13 g strawberry powder drink was introduced to the diet twice a day, for four weeks. Then the participants returned to a beige-only diet for the two final weeks without strawberries.
Drinking strawberry powder beverages twice a day for four weeks was associated with an increase of 24 operational taxonomic units (OTUs), or gut microorganisms. Once the participants returned to a beige-only diet, several of the OTUs reversed back to their pre-strawberry status, suggesting strawberry’s role in influencing the gut bacteria.
“Consumption of strawberry increased the abundance of gut microorganisms that could lead to lean body weight, better health, and longevity,” said Li.
Japanese Market for Beauty Supplements Gains Despite Pandemic
According to a report by Verify Markets, the Japanese women’s beauty supplements market was valued at over $1.4 billion in 2020. The market is expected to witness a steady growth over the next seven years. Anti-aging supplements continued to show growth, driven by Japan’s aging population which is seeking products to help them age gracefully.
Key drivers in the market include increasing female workforce participation, increasing awareness of healthcare and cosmetic science, and a renewed interest from foreign tourists. Growth in the market has been rising with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. Companies are increasingly focusing on newer product formats. Beauty is typically considered a recession-resilient category and, therefore, the market did not witness a disruption. “Even though the COVID-19 pandemic brought Japan to a halt in 2020, the pandemic had consumers focused on health and wellness, and they were increasingly looking for products related to self-care, immunity, natural remedies, supplements, and ingestible beauty,” said Shilpa Tiku, chief research officer at Verify Markets.
Retail was the most popular channel in 2020, however, e-commerce sales gained significant traction in 2020, making up more than 20% of sales by revenue. Products priced under $30 were extremely popular in 2020, generating more than 50% share by revenue.
Tablets were the most important product form in 2020, followed by drinks and powders. Jellies/gummies are gaining traction as a popular delivery format. Companies are increasingly expanding their product lines to include gummies since they are easy to chew.
Collagen is a major ingredient in beauty supplements. Efficacy, taste, and ease of use play a major part in customer satisfaction, driving research and innovation within the market. In addition, several companies are offering personalized beauty supplements and are touting it as the next step in the beauty and personal care industry.
Cosmetic Consortium Promotes Traceability of Natural Resources with DNA Analysis
Eight players in the cosmetics industry have come together to form DNA & Cosmetics, a unique consortium with the objective of guaranteeing the traceability of raw plant materials.
Using a scientific method based on DNA analysis, the members of the consortium plan to build the first reliable database that will guarantee the botanical authenticity of the plant resources used in their products. This cooperative model responds to consumer expectations of transparency and the United Nation’s sustainable development goals. The members of this consortium are recognized companies willing to commit to more secure supplies and controlled exploitation of plant resources. The eight companies include: Laboratoires Clarins, Codif Technologie Naturelle, Greentech, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, LVMH Recherche, Groupe Nuxe, Sederma, and DNA Gensee.
When purchasing natural raw materials, how can companies be sure they have the right plant (guaranteeing the botanical family, genus, and species)?
Securing supplies is one of the key issues for the consumer goods industry, and in particular for cosmetics, in line with growing expectations of consumers in terms of safety, authenticity, and transparency in connection with the application of the Nagoya protocol. DNA analysis technology offers companies this traceability, the said. It ensures the identification of plant species and even varieties with great reliability by authenticating the species analyzed; this analysis allows companies, for example, to distinguish the white lily (Lilium candidum) from the royal white lily (Lilium regale).
Scientific work on lavender, an emblematic species in the cosmetics and perfume sectors, is being undertaken by the consortium.
This collaborative initiative responds to three of the 17 SDGs established by the U.N. in order to compel companies to accelerate the ecological and solidarity transition while contributing to the health of all by guaranteeing the absence of fraud in raw materials.
Nutrition21 Launches Lustriva Beauty-from-Within Ingredient
Nutrition21, LLC has launched its latest ingredient, Lustriva, a clinically tested beauty-from-within ingredient that contains bonded arginine silicate (arginine silicon inositol complex) and magnesium biotinate (Nutrition21’s proprietary biotin formulation). The latter is a unique combination that significantly increases biotin solubility 40 times more compared to standard D-biotin, the company said.
The highly bioavailable biotin and silicon combination in Lustriva provides nutritional and structural support for hair and skin, while arginine improves blood flow for enhanced nutrient delivery and activity. Multiple preclinical and pharmacokinetic studies show superior absorption of arginine and silicon from bonded arginine silicate, as well as biotin from magnesium biotinate.
Studies have also demonstrated that Lustriva can enhance hair growth and density and improve skin elasticity and overall appearance. A recent double-blind, placebo-controlled study showed that Lustriva was able to increase hair growth in as little as three weeks. Additionally, Lustriva reduced facial wrinkles, fine lines, and improved skin texture (Journal of Clinical & Experimental Dermatology Research, 2021).
The ingredients found in Lustriva are Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) and can be formulated into a variety of dietary supplement and functional food/beverage applications, including ready-to-drink (RTD) beverages and dry mixes, gummies, capsules, and tablets. The high bioavailability and superior solubility of magnesium biotinate gives formulators access to an efficacious combination at a low dose, the company said.
“This is an exciting launch for Nutrition21, and we are proud to bring this clinically-tested, patent-protected ingredient to the beauty market,” said James Komorowski, chief science officer of Nutrition21. “Science is the biggest differentiator for Lustriva and gives us confidence that the market and consumers will embrace it. The other aspect that makes it stand out is the highly bioavailable forms of silicon, biotin, and arginine which can only be found in this product.”
Elyse Lovett, vice president of marketing for Nutrition21, also commented on this unique launch for the company. “The U.S. beauty-from-within market generated more than $1.2 billion in sales in 2019 and is expected to expand to $1.6 billion by 2023; Lustriva is primed and ready to help grow this market. The connection between beauty and nutrition is becoming clearer among savvy consumers who are using science-based ingredients to feel and look healthy; Lustriva will fit right into their health and beauty routines.”
Natures Crops Develops Natralipid Line of Specialty Personal Care Oils
Natures Crops International, a vertically-integrated producer of specialty oils for nutraceuticals, food, and personal care products, has introduced its Natralipid platform of specialty personal care oils. Natralipid oils are plant-based, expeller-pressed natural oils that provide functionality, traceability, and purity, the company said. Natralipid oils are regeneratively grown, traceable from soil to oil, and sustainably processed in a risk-mitigated and quality-assured supply chain. Each Natralipid oil is developed for best in-class performance in cosmetics and personal care applications.
More than simply inert carrier oils, these high-quality botanical seed oils have been selected from elite varieties and tested for their unique fatty acid composition and functionality in topical applications. All Natralipid oils meet the company’s Crop Assured 365 requirements for identity, purity, and traceability.
“The launch of the Natralipid platform represents our commitment to meeting consumer demands for natural, sustainable, vegan, and clean label ingredients in beauty and personal care products,” said Greg Cumberford, vice president of science and regulatory at Natures Crops. “We carefully manage the full supply chain and we work carefully to ensure that our oils are sustainably processed, never solvent extracted, and always physically refined from quality oilseeds grown from fully traceable and regeneratively cultivated sources.”
Microalgae-Derived EPS Ingredient Targets Cosmetic Applications
Marine cultivation start-up Yemoja, Ltd. (Israel) introduced its algae-derived external polysaccharide sulphate (EPS) to the cosmetic industry. This topically applied bioactive ingredient from the Porphyridium cruentum species of microalgae is in high demand for its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and rejuvenating properties.
The ingredient, branded EPS-Revive, is the first bioactive ingredient to be produced from the red algae in a tightly controlled lab environment using high-precision and fast-track photobioreactor technology, the company said. This launch brings to market new levels of quality, yield, and consistency.
Increasing consumer demand for natural products is driving the discovery and research of new natural compounds within the marine biosphere. The sea environment has been generating heightened recognition in recent years as a promising source of skin-health benefits due to its rich biological and chemical diversity. Peer-reviewed research points to the soluble EPS fraction’s prodigious antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-aging activities.
“More and more companies are working to create an ‘all-natural’ brand by using plant-based or algae-based substances, with emphasis on ‘green’ processes and chemical-free end products,” said Erez Ashkenazi, CEO of Yemoja. “While the demand for the product is high, Yemoja is a rare player in that we can provide a steady supply of the valuable and standardized raw material. We cultivate only natural wild-strain algae through an automated, fully controlled and contaminant-free downstream process. We use no chemicals or solvents, and we do not exploit any natural resources from the environment.”
Yemoja’s deployment of this unique closed-cultivation system means there’s no dependency on external environmental factors or impact from climate fluctuations, enabling the company to provide the cosmetics market with high-quality EPS all year round customized exactly per the desired composition; the product can be delivered at variable concentrations in gel form or delivered as pure powder. Yemoja also has the capability to increase the amount of sulphate bound to the EPS using unique protocols that take place during the cultivation phase of the algae.
“EPS molecules are synthesized within the red Porphyridium cruentum microalgae under high-stress conditions,” said Amikam Bar-Gill, CTO of Yemoja. “This exerts a protective mechanism that safeguards the algae’s cells from dehydration, pH shifts, and bacterial infections. During cultivation the EPS is secreted by the algae and dissolved within the growth media—seawater—which is later separated from the biomass for ultra-filtration in order to concentrate the EPS into its final gel form.”
A recent ex-vivo trial demonstrated the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects of EPS Revive. In the study, the EPS was shown to preserve the integrity of the connective tissue between the dermal layers in a depleted culture medium. It is believed that its sulphate content and structure renders it an excellent reactive oxygen species scavenger and protects the skin from aging. It also inhibited various inflammatory markers, specifically TNF-a and IL6 cytokines.
EPS-Revive is formulated to be easily integrated into creams and lotions and various other topical applications. “We are exploring possibilities for integrating our aqueous solution into food supplements and branching out to the beauty-from-within sector,” said Ashkenazi.
“Porphyridium polysaccharide is a potent antioxidant and effective anti-inflammatory agent that bears a high affinity to skin support and already is in use in nearly 300 cosmetic formulations worldwide. We also plan to investigate its possible capacity for alleviating medical dermal issues, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis in the near future,” said Bar-Gil.
Collagen’s star power is rising fast thanks to scientifically backed health claims, a well-defined end-user group, diversification of health benefits, and flexibility of formulation applications.
According to an analysis conducted by research firm Frost & Sullivan, the market for collagen peptides—the hydrolyzed and most bioavailable form of collagen—is already growing at about 8% a year (CAGR, 2020-2024). However, sales are still a long way from their peak. With vast untapped potential to expand into new markets, applications, and products, Frost & Sullivan expects momentum to accelerate and growth to reach new heights.
The findings are published in a recent report, “Is collagen here to stay?” which was commissioned by PB Leiner, supplier of SOLUGEL collagen peptides. The report indicates that, based on the developmental path followed by more mature health ingredients such as probiotics and omega-3s, collagen peptides are still in the very early stages of their product lifecycle.
As a result, market penetration for collagen peptide ingredients and products remains relatively low across Europe, North America, and Asia-Pacific. In the North American market, for example, collagen peptides’ penetration rate is estimated to be at least 35 times lower than omega-3s, indicating significant potential for growth.
The analysis also said that collagen peptides rank from “good” to “excellent” against the critical success factors for health ingredients. These include scientifically backed health claims, a well-defined end-user group, diversification of health benefits, and the capability to be incorporated into foods and beverages. The authors of the report concluded that collagen peptides have all the necessary characteristics to become a highly successful ingredient that will support the health of millions of people worldwide.
Figure 1. Market Development Path of Health Ingredients
“In comparison with other, more mature health ingredient categories, collagen peptides are still at a relatively early stage of their evolution across all continents,” said Tomasz Bochenski, senior consultant at Frost & Sullivan and lead researcher on the report. “This means significant opportunities remain for manufacturers, retailers and investors. Developing new applications for collagen peptides in terms of functionality and product innovation will further expand the market, allowing it to reach new customers who might not yet be aware of the many scientifically proven health benefits of collagen peptides.”
Cindy Dekeyser, global business intelligence manager at PB Leiner, added, “Frost & Sullivan’s analysis perfectly aligns with what we and other observers have seen: collagen peptides are starting to go mainstream, gaining wider acceptance and familiarity among end consumers. This means consumer requirements are becoming increasingly sophisticated, with more and more differentiation in product concepts and quality needed to stand out from the crowd. That is where we, as a global leader in collagen, step in; we assist our customers in translating trends into on-trend concepts. This customized support, ranging from market intelligence to new product development to technical support, significantly enhances customer success.”
Research on Strawberries Uncovers Healthy Aging Benefits
Three recent studies have suggested that strawberries may be associated with slowing down aging of the brain, cardiovascular system, and gut microbiome.
Cognitive Health Benefits. With age, the brain can experience changes that result in impairments in learning, memory, gait, and balance. Sometimes these changes lead to early cognitive decline, disability, or falls among older adults.
In a study published in the British Journal of Nutrition (2021) by Dr. Barbara Shukitt-Hale and her team at the USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging at Tufts University, 37 healthy older adults participated in a two-arm trial in which they consumed either freeze-dried strawberry powder beverages (24 g/day, equivalent to two cups of fresh strawberries) or a calorie-matched control powder for 90 days. Participants completed a battery of balance, gait, and cognitive tests at baseline, midpoint, and conclusion of the trial.
Participants in the strawberry group performed better on spatial memory tasks and word recognition tests relative to those in the control group. These findings show that the addition of strawberry to the diets of healthy, older adults can improve some aspects of cognition, although more studies with a larger sample size and longer follow-up are needed to confirm this finding.
“Based on these promising results in healthy individuals, we are now conducting a study among older adults whose health is compromised and we expect to see even greater improvement following strawberry supplementation,” said Shukitt-Hale.
This research follows earlier studies that indicated diets higher in long-term flavonoid intake, from foods such as strawberries, could contribute to reducing the risk of Alzheimer’s Disease and related dementias (Ann Neurol, 2012; Nutrients, 2019; Am J Clin Nutr, 2020).
Heart Health Benefits. Endothelium is a thin layer of cells that lines every blood vessel in the body. It’s responsible for the relaxation and constriction of veins and arteries, playing a major role in blood flow, blood pressure regulation, blood clotting, and wound healing. High total cholesterol and LDL (“bad” cholesterol) can impair the function of the endothelium, clog arteries, and lead to heart disease, particularly in later years of life.
A new study from Dr. Britt Burton Freeman’s team of researchers at Illinois Institute of Technology published in the Journal of Nutrition in 2021 asked middle-aged adults with moderately-high LDL cholesterol to drink beverages two times a day made from freeze-dried strawberry powder (25 g in each) or a control powder for four weeks. After completing their first assigned beverage, they switched to the other one (strawberry/control) for an additional four weeks.
The health of the endothelium, measured by flow-mediated dilation, improved in the strawberry group one hour after drinking the beverage. Systolic blood pressure decreased two hours after drinking the strawberry beverage compared to the control, and this was more pronounced four weeks after the strawberry intervention.
The findings suggest that strawberries may improve endothelial function and be considered a specific food to include in a heart-healthy diet for aging adults with moderately-high cholesterol.
Gut Health Benefits. Strawberries act as prebiotics and may increase gut bacteria associated with lean body weight, health, and longevity, according to a study out of the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) published in Nutrition Research.
The pilot study led by Dr. Zhaoping Li and her team at the Center for Human Nutrition considered whether strawberries would alter the gut microbiota. Rich in vitamin C and polyphenols, strawberries have already shown their potential to decrease LDL cholesterol, blood glucose, insulin resistance, and other disease risk factors (J Nutr, 2014; Food Funct, 2020; Mol Nutr Food Res, 2016). The gut microbiota is the next frontier for scientific exploration of strawberries’ impact on health.
Fourteen adults were asked to follow a “beige” diet low in fiber and polyphenols for 8 weeks. Two weeks in, a 13 g strawberry powder drink was introduced to the diet twice a day, for four weeks. Then the participants returned to a beige-only diet for the two final weeks without strawberries.
Drinking strawberry powder beverages twice a day for four weeks was associated with an increase of 24 operational taxonomic units (OTUs), or gut microorganisms. Once the participants returned to a beige-only diet, several of the OTUs reversed back to their pre-strawberry status, suggesting strawberry’s role in influencing the gut bacteria.
“Consumption of strawberry increased the abundance of gut microorganisms that could lead to lean body weight, better health, and longevity,” said Li.
Japanese Market for Beauty Supplements Gains Despite Pandemic
According to a report by Verify Markets, the Japanese women’s beauty supplements market was valued at over $1.4 billion in 2020. The market is expected to witness a steady growth over the next seven years. Anti-aging supplements continued to show growth, driven by Japan’s aging population which is seeking products to help them age gracefully.
Key drivers in the market include increasing female workforce participation, increasing awareness of healthcare and cosmetic science, and a renewed interest from foreign tourists. Growth in the market has been rising with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. Companies are increasingly focusing on newer product formats. Beauty is typically considered a recession-resilient category and, therefore, the market did not witness a disruption. “Even though the COVID-19 pandemic brought Japan to a halt in 2020, the pandemic had consumers focused on health and wellness, and they were increasingly looking for products related to self-care, immunity, natural remedies, supplements, and ingestible beauty,” said Shilpa Tiku, chief research officer at Verify Markets.
Retail was the most popular channel in 2020, however, e-commerce sales gained significant traction in 2020, making up more than 20% of sales by revenue. Products priced under $30 were extremely popular in 2020, generating more than 50% share by revenue.
Tablets were the most important product form in 2020, followed by drinks and powders. Jellies/gummies are gaining traction as a popular delivery format. Companies are increasingly expanding their product lines to include gummies since they are easy to chew.
Collagen is a major ingredient in beauty supplements. Efficacy, taste, and ease of use play a major part in customer satisfaction, driving research and innovation within the market. In addition, several companies are offering personalized beauty supplements and are touting it as the next step in the beauty and personal care industry.
Cosmetic Consortium Promotes Traceability of Natural Resources with DNA Analysis
Eight players in the cosmetics industry have come together to form DNA & Cosmetics, a unique consortium with the objective of guaranteeing the traceability of raw plant materials.
Using a scientific method based on DNA analysis, the members of the consortium plan to build the first reliable database that will guarantee the botanical authenticity of the plant resources used in their products. This cooperative model responds to consumer expectations of transparency and the United Nation’s sustainable development goals. The members of this consortium are recognized companies willing to commit to more secure supplies and controlled exploitation of plant resources. The eight companies include: Laboratoires Clarins, Codif Technologie Naturelle, Greentech, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, LVMH Recherche, Groupe Nuxe, Sederma, and DNA Gensee.
When purchasing natural raw materials, how can companies be sure they have the right plant (guaranteeing the botanical family, genus, and species)?
Securing supplies is one of the key issues for the consumer goods industry, and in particular for cosmetics, in line with growing expectations of consumers in terms of safety, authenticity, and transparency in connection with the application of the Nagoya protocol. DNA analysis technology offers companies this traceability, the said. It ensures the identification of plant species and even varieties with great reliability by authenticating the species analyzed; this analysis allows companies, for example, to distinguish the white lily (Lilium candidum) from the royal white lily (Lilium regale).
Scientific work on lavender, an emblematic species in the cosmetics and perfume sectors, is being undertaken by the consortium.
This collaborative initiative responds to three of the 17 SDGs established by the U.N. in order to compel companies to accelerate the ecological and solidarity transition while contributing to the health of all by guaranteeing the absence of fraud in raw materials.
- G3. Good health and well-being: DNA testing helps companies achieve a more secure supply of raw plant materials and thus prevents health risks to the consumer.
- G12. Responsible consumption and production: DNA analysis allows companies to better secure the production of raw plant materials and thus promote sustainable production methods.
- G17. Partnerships to achieve the goals: The consortium is built on shared principles and values, vision, and goals for sustainability.
Nutrition21 Launches Lustriva Beauty-from-Within Ingredient
Nutrition21, LLC has launched its latest ingredient, Lustriva, a clinically tested beauty-from-within ingredient that contains bonded arginine silicate (arginine silicon inositol complex) and magnesium biotinate (Nutrition21’s proprietary biotin formulation). The latter is a unique combination that significantly increases biotin solubility 40 times more compared to standard D-biotin, the company said.
The highly bioavailable biotin and silicon combination in Lustriva provides nutritional and structural support for hair and skin, while arginine improves blood flow for enhanced nutrient delivery and activity. Multiple preclinical and pharmacokinetic studies show superior absorption of arginine and silicon from bonded arginine silicate, as well as biotin from magnesium biotinate.
Studies have also demonstrated that Lustriva can enhance hair growth and density and improve skin elasticity and overall appearance. A recent double-blind, placebo-controlled study showed that Lustriva was able to increase hair growth in as little as three weeks. Additionally, Lustriva reduced facial wrinkles, fine lines, and improved skin texture (Journal of Clinical & Experimental Dermatology Research, 2021).
The ingredients found in Lustriva are Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) and can be formulated into a variety of dietary supplement and functional food/beverage applications, including ready-to-drink (RTD) beverages and dry mixes, gummies, capsules, and tablets. The high bioavailability and superior solubility of magnesium biotinate gives formulators access to an efficacious combination at a low dose, the company said.
“This is an exciting launch for Nutrition21, and we are proud to bring this clinically-tested, patent-protected ingredient to the beauty market,” said James Komorowski, chief science officer of Nutrition21. “Science is the biggest differentiator for Lustriva and gives us confidence that the market and consumers will embrace it. The other aspect that makes it stand out is the highly bioavailable forms of silicon, biotin, and arginine which can only be found in this product.”
Elyse Lovett, vice president of marketing for Nutrition21, also commented on this unique launch for the company. “The U.S. beauty-from-within market generated more than $1.2 billion in sales in 2019 and is expected to expand to $1.6 billion by 2023; Lustriva is primed and ready to help grow this market. The connection between beauty and nutrition is becoming clearer among savvy consumers who are using science-based ingredients to feel and look healthy; Lustriva will fit right into their health and beauty routines.”
Natures Crops Develops Natralipid Line of Specialty Personal Care Oils
Natures Crops International, a vertically-integrated producer of specialty oils for nutraceuticals, food, and personal care products, has introduced its Natralipid platform of specialty personal care oils. Natralipid oils are plant-based, expeller-pressed natural oils that provide functionality, traceability, and purity, the company said. Natralipid oils are regeneratively grown, traceable from soil to oil, and sustainably processed in a risk-mitigated and quality-assured supply chain. Each Natralipid oil is developed for best in-class performance in cosmetics and personal care applications.
More than simply inert carrier oils, these high-quality botanical seed oils have been selected from elite varieties and tested for their unique fatty acid composition and functionality in topical applications. All Natralipid oils meet the company’s Crop Assured 365 requirements for identity, purity, and traceability.
“The launch of the Natralipid platform represents our commitment to meeting consumer demands for natural, sustainable, vegan, and clean label ingredients in beauty and personal care products,” said Greg Cumberford, vice president of science and regulatory at Natures Crops. “We carefully manage the full supply chain and we work carefully to ensure that our oils are sustainably processed, never solvent extracted, and always physically refined from quality oilseeds grown from fully traceable and regeneratively cultivated sources.”
Microalgae-Derived EPS Ingredient Targets Cosmetic Applications
Marine cultivation start-up Yemoja, Ltd. (Israel) introduced its algae-derived external polysaccharide sulphate (EPS) to the cosmetic industry. This topically applied bioactive ingredient from the Porphyridium cruentum species of microalgae is in high demand for its anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and rejuvenating properties.
The ingredient, branded EPS-Revive, is the first bioactive ingredient to be produced from the red algae in a tightly controlled lab environment using high-precision and fast-track photobioreactor technology, the company said. This launch brings to market new levels of quality, yield, and consistency.
Increasing consumer demand for natural products is driving the discovery and research of new natural compounds within the marine biosphere. The sea environment has been generating heightened recognition in recent years as a promising source of skin-health benefits due to its rich biological and chemical diversity. Peer-reviewed research points to the soluble EPS fraction’s prodigious antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-aging activities.
“More and more companies are working to create an ‘all-natural’ brand by using plant-based or algae-based substances, with emphasis on ‘green’ processes and chemical-free end products,” said Erez Ashkenazi, CEO of Yemoja. “While the demand for the product is high, Yemoja is a rare player in that we can provide a steady supply of the valuable and standardized raw material. We cultivate only natural wild-strain algae through an automated, fully controlled and contaminant-free downstream process. We use no chemicals or solvents, and we do not exploit any natural resources from the environment.”
Yemoja’s deployment of this unique closed-cultivation system means there’s no dependency on external environmental factors or impact from climate fluctuations, enabling the company to provide the cosmetics market with high-quality EPS all year round customized exactly per the desired composition; the product can be delivered at variable concentrations in gel form or delivered as pure powder. Yemoja also has the capability to increase the amount of sulphate bound to the EPS using unique protocols that take place during the cultivation phase of the algae.
“EPS molecules are synthesized within the red Porphyridium cruentum microalgae under high-stress conditions,” said Amikam Bar-Gill, CTO of Yemoja. “This exerts a protective mechanism that safeguards the algae’s cells from dehydration, pH shifts, and bacterial infections. During cultivation the EPS is secreted by the algae and dissolved within the growth media—seawater—which is later separated from the biomass for ultra-filtration in order to concentrate the EPS into its final gel form.”
A recent ex-vivo trial demonstrated the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects of EPS Revive. In the study, the EPS was shown to preserve the integrity of the connective tissue between the dermal layers in a depleted culture medium. It is believed that its sulphate content and structure renders it an excellent reactive oxygen species scavenger and protects the skin from aging. It also inhibited various inflammatory markers, specifically TNF-a and IL6 cytokines.
EPS-Revive is formulated to be easily integrated into creams and lotions and various other topical applications. “We are exploring possibilities for integrating our aqueous solution into food supplements and branching out to the beauty-from-within sector,” said Ashkenazi.
“Porphyridium polysaccharide is a potent antioxidant and effective anti-inflammatory agent that bears a high affinity to skin support and already is in use in nearly 300 cosmetic formulations worldwide. We also plan to investigate its possible capacity for alleviating medical dermal issues, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis in the near future,” said Bar-Gil.