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    Features

    MarketWatch: The Latest Trends in Beauty I&O

    The latest news and developments in the world of Beauty I&O products.

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    09.15.11
    Anti-Aging Market to Grow 46% By 2015

    Most consumers believe that aging gracefully is genetic. But they also believe factors such as diet, exercise and sunscreen play an important role in warding off the signs of aging, according to recent Mintel research.
     
    More specifically, the research firm found 69% of consumers believed how you age is mostly genetic. Eight out of 10 consumers also said diet and exercise are the most important factors associated with aging skin, and 78% believed that using sunscreen is the real key to preventing visible signs of aging.
     
    While many consumers said external products, such as anti-aging creams, are “more hope than help,” they still believed that something is better than nothing. “There’s a sizable gap between opinion and practice,” stated Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst at Mintel. “While there are no guarantees when it comes to anti-aging skin care purchases, many women buy the products anyway with the hope of achieving visible results. They adopt the ‘it’s better to try something than do nothing’ approach.”
     
    The $832 million anti-aging skin care market has experienced decelerated growth in the past year, according to Mintel, but sales are expected to increase 46% in current prices from 2010 to 2015.
     
    Currently, 24% of consumers are using anti-aging skin care products. Another 21% have used wrinkle-reducing facial skin care products in the past year, and 18% reported using skin-rejuvenating products. Meanwhile, 39% of consumers who are concerned with aging have not taken any action to prevent or reverse the signs of aging, according to Mintel.
     
    For those consumers who are concerned about aging, the entire face is the biggest concern (48%), followed by the eye area (41%), the stomach (40%) and the neck (31%). “Respondents (ages 25 to 54) report the most likelihood to use facial skin care products with anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing and skin-rejuvenating properties,” Ms. Fay stated.
     
    “This makes sense, as at age 25 many people are likely beginning to see the first signs of aging and want to prevent further signs. Through middle age, they are trying to reverse the signs; and after age 55, they are likely more resigned to aging and less inclined to spend,” she added.
     
    Anti-Aging Doctor Launches Beauty Shake

    Aaron Tabor, a renowned expert in anti-aging, beauty and diet medical research, has introduced Beauty Shake, a daily beauty drink for women that helps support healthy nail appearance and maintain normal skin and hair health. Dr. Tabor’s Beauty Shake also serves as a meal replacement that can be used as part of a diet or healthy eating plan. Each shake contains 20 grams of patented protein, 600 mg of calcium, and other vitamins and minerals that nourish a healthy appearance from the inside-out. Dr. Tabor’s Beauty Shake is available through QVC. 
     
    Each doctor-formulated, protein-packed Beauty Shake can be used as part of Dr. Tabor’s Slim & Beautiful Diet for an inside-out makeover. The drink contains 2.5 mg of biotin, a water-soluble B-complex vitamin (vitamin B7), which helps support hair and nail growth. Dr. Tabor’s Beauty Shake also has a low-glycemic index.
     
    Dr. Tabor’s Beauty Shake for Hair, Skin and Nails comes in three flavors—Chocolate Youth, Vanilla Vibrance and Strawberry Sparkle—and is available in  ready-to-mix powder packs (2.11 ounces each). 
     
    NSF Partners with NATRUE for Natural Personal Care Certification

    Personal care in the U.S. will finally have a new standard for “natural” personal care products, and consumers will have a new label they can trust in the marketplace. NSF International, a U.S. testing and certification organization committed to protecting the environment and public health, and NATRUE, The International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association, have partnered to develop the first American national standard for natural personal care products.
     
    The new American national standard will define the use of the term “natural” and will protect the integrity of verified natural personal care products. NATRUE’s natural personal care criteria (NATRUE Standard Level 1) will be used as a foundation for the development of an American version, which will help establish a globally recognized definition of “natural” in personal care products, including cosmetics, oral care and personal hygiene products.
     
    A recent survey of eco-friendly buying habits found that many consumers are skeptical of the term “natural” on product packaging, with 65% saying they would like to see the term “certified” for both processes and ingredients. This finding identifies an unmet need for personal care manufacturers.

    “In the absence of a standard definition, consumers often question the term ‘natural’ on personal care products as to what it actually means,” said NSF International standards director Jane Wilson. “By collaborating with NATRUE, consumer groups, industry experts and regulators, the American national standard for natural personal care products will define, in line with NATRUE’s label approach, the use of the term ‘natural’ helping to protect and promote authentic and quality natural personal care products worldwide.”
     
    NSF International will develop the new natural personal care standard utilizing a consensus-based process that allows for balanced participation from key stakeholder groups, including regulators, personal care manufacturers, trade associations, product retailers and other stakeholders from the natural personal care products community.
     
    Drinking Your Way to a Beautiful Tan

    Brazilian company Sunlover has launched a beauty drink, which is said to improve the drinker’s skin and tan. The product is the latest in a line of nutricosmetic food and drink launches to hit the market. However, Nestle’s recent decision to remove its nutraceutical brand, Glowelle, from sale, perhaps suggests that these products still have some way to go to achieve consumer acceptance.
     
    Sunlover, the brainchild of Brazilian entrepreneur Artur Tavares, is a new cosmetic drink developed with Spanish beverage company Inbesa. The product, which was launched in Brazil in May, is designed to provide “beauty from within” through ingestion rather than external treatment. Containing beta-carotene, vitamin A and amino acids, Sunlover is claimed to promote skin nourishment and tanning and to provide a healthy complexion.
    The product was launched in 250 ml slimline cans supplied by packaging manufacturer Rexam and features a distinctive golden print. By selecting a similar shape and size of can to that used for Red Bull, Sunlover hopes to make a similarly strong impact among its key target market.
     
    Sunlover is the latest entrant among a growing band of nutricosmetic food and drinks to have hit the market in recent months. Other companies that have tested the market include Mars with its Dove Beautiful vitamin-enhanced chocolate, and Frutels with its Acne Care in a Chocolate offering. The concept of beauty foods has proven particularly popular in Brazil, where, according to Datamonitor research, 63% of consumers found the products to be appealing, compared to typical approval ratings of 35-40% in Europe.
     
    Indeed, consumers’ views seem to be somewhat polarized when it comes to beauty foods and drinks. Datamonitor research conducted in 2010 shows 44% of consumers across 20 countries found the concept to be either “very appealing” or “somewhat appealing,” with 51% believing that it is “not appealing.”
     
    Such results may go some way toward explaining Nestle’s recent decision to remove Glowelle from the market. This product was launched as a fortified drink, containing vitamins and antioxidant properties, which enhance skin health and tackle aging. Although the brand proved to be popular—gaining nearly 7000 Facebook “fans”—a high €5 price tag led to its withdrawal. However, the company has stated it is developing the next generation of Glowelle products.
     
    Sunlover is currently being test-marketed in Portugal, with a U.K. launch expected to serve as a bridgehead for an eventual Europe-wide launch. While it could be argued that beachgoers of the Copacabana and the Mediterranean may not need much tanning assistance, the same cannot be said of Northern Europe. But it remains to be seen whether consumers will be able to overcome their suspicions about whether the product can match its claims.
     
    Unigen & Estée Lauder Sign Supply Agreement

    Unigen Inc., has entered into an exclusive product license and supply agreement with a subsidiary of The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., relating to the development and commercialization of Unigen’s proprietary natural ingredients.
     
    Under the agreement, Unigen granted the Estée Lauder Companies exclusive rights to groundbreaking discoveries. Financial details of the agreement were not disclosed. “The combination of Unigen’s commitment to developing highly effective cosmetic ingredients with the Estée Lauder Companies’ outstanding product development expertise will result in even better performing products for our consumers,” said Harvey Gedeon, executive vice president, Global Research, Development and Product Innovation for the Estée Lauder Companies.
     
    “We are pleased to have the exclusive rights to important Unigen discoveries—the first of which is now being used in Clinique’s exciting new products, Clinique Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector and Clinique Derma White Clinical Brightening Essence. We look forward to working with Unigen’s scientists to bring additional benefits to our other products and brands.”

    “The greatest reward for scientists is to see their discovery successfully commercialized and provide meaningful benefits. We are delighted that a company with the Estée Lauder Companies’ stature and global reach has committed to showcase our scientists’ discoveries,” said Ed Cannon, PhD, Unigen’s president and CEO. “Unigen shares a commitment to people and planet, and we are excited by the new product potential of combining the Estée Lauder Companies’ skin biology expertise with Unigen’s natural products chemistry and biology expertise.”
     
    BioCell Puts Flagship Anti-Aging Ingredient to the Test

    BioCell Technology LLC, Newport Beach, CA, has completed its first human skin study of BioCell Collagen II in women who have undergone natural and UV-intensified aging processes. In broad brushstrokes, the company said, this study has demonstrated the safety and significant efficacy of BioCell Collagen II in improving a variety of aging-associated facial effects measured both qualitatively and quantitatively.
     
    BioCell Collagen II is a naturally-occurring matrix containing hydrolyzed collagen and highly-bioavailable hyaluronic acid. It had been strongly implicated as a healthy-aging ingredient that promotes both joint and skin health, and specifically causing the “beauty from the inside” effects that have traditionally been achieved with external or invasive wrinkle-reducing treatments. The outcome of previous studies demonstrated an excellent safety profile and efficacy in bioavailability, increased levels of hyaluronic acid and inhibition of hyaluronidase, providing more turgid, hydrated and supple skin. BioCell Collagen II has also been shown in human clinical trials to reduce joint discomfort and stiffness as much as 40% in eight weeks.
     
    Encouraged by the consistently favorable outcome of the earlier studies, BioCell Technology recently completed a study investigating the effects of BioCell Collagen II on diverse parameters relevant to aged appearance of the facial skin. These parameters included dryness, wrinkles, deep lines and collagen content. This study on skin aging has proven that BioCell Collagen II is indeed an essential “nutricosmetic” ingredient that promotes healthy aging. Its multi-layered mechanisms of action have been shown to synergistically antagonize the skin aging process and promote a younger-looking appearance with better hydration, higher collagen content, reduced wrinkle counts and shallower line depth. As a result, a majority of the study participants experienced a remarkable improvement in skin texture, together with hydration, reduced scaling and improved blood microcirculation.
     
    Dr. Joosang Park, principal investigator of the research team, said the details of the study will be published in the near future. Dr. Park, who conducted research at Harvard Medical School for many years, applies the rigorous standards of pharmaceutical research and practices to nutritional ingredients. “The extraordinary fact about this study is that the subjects took BioCell Collagen II orally for skin beauty;” said Dr. Park, “this was not a topical study. It means that BioCell Collagen II is not only a true nutraceutical, but that it can offer less wrinkles, increased collagen and supple, hydrated skin by working from the inside-out.” Dr. Park also stated, “This and earlier studies demonstrate that BioCell Collagen II can support the skin dermis collagen network containing collagen types I and III as well as collagen type II in the joint. I’m encouraged about these findings and that it adds to the portfolio of research that makes BioCell Collagen II a true nutricosmetic substantiated by multiple human studies.”  
     
    Gum That Satisfies & Beautifies

    In the beginning of July, Antula Healthcare, Stockholm, Sweden, launched a new gum called Vigo. Containing a variety of vitamins and minerals, the company claims it can strengthen hair, skin and nails and promote healthy, elastic skin. Approved by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA), a company spokeswoman told the Daily Mail, “We are not saying that you will look better but that you will maintain a healthy complexion.” The gum is available in three versions: Focus, Beauty and Active.
     
    Getting A Tan, Naturally

    The market for self-tanning products increased more than 400% between 2001 and 2006, with growth being spurred by the major consumer demands of a youthful appearance and health. Self-tanning products fulfill both of these requirements, giving consumers a way to obtain a healthy glow while not damaging their skin through overexposure to the sun.
     
    However, traditional products do not provide real skin pigmentation, but instead include chemicals like dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which react with proteins in the upper skin layer and produce colored degeneration products. The well-known disadvantages include a non-natural color, often with an orange-red glow, a rapid disappearance of the obtained effect and the lack of any UV protection.
     
    Now, research at InterMed Discovery (IMD) is about to answer the discrepancy between high market demand and non-satisfying market solutions with a new idea and technology complementary to previous solutions.
     
    Natural skin color results from several factors. By far the most important factor is the concentration and mixture of types of melanin, which are body-own pigments biosynthesized in specialized skin cells called melanocytes. The amount of melanin produced by these cellular fabrics is dependent on individual predisposition and stimulation by sunlight, thereby providing a natural protection of the skin against UV irradiation and sunburn.
     
    Researchers at IMD have now developed an innovative approach for stimulation of the body’s own production of skin pigmentation. Small natural products derived from plant sources are applied in topical formulations to enhance the body’s production of melanin, thereby providing, for the very first time, access to a real tanning effect without the need for sun or UV light exposure. The natural actives target a specific receptor on the melanocytes, which results in the production of a pattern of pigments corresponding to one’s individual skin type.
     
    The key benefit of a true natural tan is complemented by the tanned skin’s protective effect against sunlight and UV irradiation. The IP of this highly innovative mechanism is owned by IMD, and further development of the active lead compounds is currently ongoing, with the goal of entering the cosmetics market in 2012.
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